Montrose, Angus

Montrose is a Scottish coastal resort town and former royal burgh in Angus. It is situated 38 miles (61 km) north east of Dundee between the mouths of the North and South Esk rivers. It is the northernmost coastal town in Angus and developed at a natural harbour that traded in skins, hides and cured salmon in medieval times.

With a population of approximately 12,000, the town functions as a port, but the major employer is GlaxoSmithKline, recently saved from closure. The skyline of Montrose is dominated by the 220 foot steeple, designed by James Gillespie Graham and built between 1832 and 1834.

Montrose is a town with a wealth of architecture, and is a centre for international trade. It is an important commercial port for the thriving oil and gas industry. It it known for its wide thoroughfare and high street which leads to picturesque closes containing secluded gardens. The town has a view of a two square mile tidal lagoon, Montrose Basin, which is considered a nature reserve of international importance. It is the largest inland salt water basin in the UK, and an important habitat for the mute swan. Just outside Montrose is the 18th Century House of Dun, designed by the Scottish architect William Adam and built in 1730 for David Erskine, 13th Laird of Dun.

Toponymy and Early History
Prehistoric elements are found in the vicinity of Montrose, including the Stone of Morphie located to the north. One ancient name for Montrose was Celurca. Early place names appear to show the presence of a Norse settlement in the area of the present harbour. The Norse settlement was named Stroma which translates as 'Tide race river', referring to the speed of the tidal emptying and filling of the aforementioned basin, (est 9 Knots). It is claimed that the name Montrose stems from 'Mouth Hrossay' due to the location at the outlets of the River Esk near Rossie Island (Norse: horse island). However the etymology is more often attributed to the gaelic words Monadh (meaning moor) and Rois or Ros (meaning peninsula or promontory). The first documentary evidence of the existence of Montrose is the burgh charter issued by David I who founded the town around 1140 as Sallorch or Sallork. By 1178 the name had taken the form Munross before becoming Montrose. Some scholars believe that the name of the town denotes the meaning "Mount of Roses". This reflects the motto on the town's seal: Marie ditat, rosa decorat.

Mediaeval History
Montrose was visited and plundered in numerous instances instances by Danes. In the year 980 it was sacked and razed to the ground. . It was once believed that a castle existed in Montrose in the tenth century and was destroyed by Kenneth III. However this historical account has been disputed.

In the two proceeding centuries there are no precise dates in its history. During the 1140s it was an important trading town. The trading revenues received from Montrose as well as Forfar and Dundee were acquired by Malcolm IV and contributed to Restenneth Priory. In 1178 William the Lion built a castle nearby in which he would occasionally reside. The ruins have acquired the name Red Castle. The last record of a charter there was in 1198. A convent dedicated to the Virgin Mary is said to have been founded in 1230 by Alan Durward but the precise location is unknown. In 1244 the town succumbed to fire.

In July 1296 during the Wars of Independence, Edward I visited the town with 30,000 of his men and stayed at Munros castle for three nights. Some accounts state that it was there that he humiliated Scottish King John de Balliol by publicly stripping him of his Royal insignia and status; other accounts claim that this occurred in Brechin. Twelve burghesses of the town swore allegiance to Edward I to protect themselves and the community of the town. The following year the castle, which was manned by an English garrison, was destroyed by William Wallace who is said to have slain all soldiers in sight. The site of the castle, known as Castlestead, is at the southern end of the High Street. David II visited it towards the end of his reign in 1371. The Dukedom of Montrose was created in 1488.

During the 15th century the inhabitants of the town found themselves increasingly under heel of the Lairds of Dun who ransacked and took possession of property and cattle. The lairds are said to have arrived in the middle of one night on horseback heavily armed. The burghesses of the town immediately sent out an appeal to the Duke of Montrose for protection but the messenger was purportedly murdered before the appeal arrived. It was then that James IV of Scotland intervened and settled the matter.

Modern history
From its early inception as a port Montrose had traded in skins, hides and cured salmon but in the 17th century began to export wheat and barley in regular trading transactions with the Hanseatic League. The town imported flax and timber from the Baltic; salt, fruit and wine from France and Portugal. The wealth this brought to the town is demonstrated in the surviving houses built by landowning and merchant families as well as local street names of "America Street", "California Street", "Baltic Street" and "India Street" evidencing its trading heritage.

The site of the castle, now known as Castlestead was the birthplace of the famous James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose. Graham signed the National Covenant against Charles I's reorganisation of the Kirk in Scotland, fighting in the ensuing Bishops' Wars, but later switched to the King's side only to be captured and executed in Edinburgh in the year 1650.

The final chapter of the ill-fated 1715 Jacobite rebellion was also played out in Montrose After the short lived uprising on 4 February 1716 Prince James Francis Edward Stuart (the Old Pretender) arrived in Montrose, where he spent his last night in Scotland. He sailed from Montrose to his final exile in France. The town was held for his son, Prince Charles Edward Stuart, 30 years later and in February 1746 the largest naval battle of the war was fought in Montrose Harbour.

During the 18th century the town was a major smuggling centre. It profited from the slave trade but only for a brief time. The wealth accrued by trade was substantial. Wealthy merchants in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries dominated the town and built their houses gable to gable. Hence Montrosians have inherited the sobriquet, "gable-enders". A statistical account taken between 1791 and 1799 estimates the population in the 1750s as 4248; in 1776 as 4465; in 1784 as 4866 and in 1790 as 5194. Contemporaries expected that many would emigrate at the conclusion of the American Revolutionary War but those that did leave were few.

Samuel Johnson made a tour of the town on his visit to Scotland in the 1770s. He said of it:

"...we travelled on to Montrose, which we surveyed in the morning and found it well-built, airy, and clean. The town house is a handsome fabrick with a portico. We then went to view the English chapel, and found it a small church, clean to a degree unknown in any other part of Scotland, with commodius galleries, and what was yet less expected, with an organ.".

Alexander Christie (c1721-1794) was provost in the town during the 1760s and 1780s and oversaw the establishment of Scotland's first Lunatic Asylum in Montrose in 1781 which became Sunnyside Royal Hospital.

In 1785 a subscription library for learned men was formed.

During World War II Montrose became a hub for a constant stream of international pilots from all over the Commonwealth, Poland, Czechoslovakia, America, Russia, France and other allied nations. As well as a training base Montrose was also an operational airfield for Hawker Hurricane and Supermarine Spitfire squadrons, which flew sorties over Norway and were a part of the air defences for Edinburgh. Of course, this also made the town a target for German aircraft and it was bombed on more than one occasion. Despite its coastal location presenting a danger however, large numbers of children and young mothers from Dundee were evacuated there during the period of the Phoney War. Initially numbers totalled around 2,000 but in a second wave around 1,200 more were sent. As was the case in many other receiving areas, the local population was concerned by the condition of the urban poor and impetigo and vermin were found on some of those evacuated. By June 1940 Montrose could no longer provide shelter. The presence of Dundee families in Montrose during wartime convinced a number to settle there. This altered the demographics of the town and led to the building of housing estates in the 1960s.

Montrose was a royal burgh until 1975.

Bamse
Bamse is buried in the town. The St Bernard dog from Norway stole the hearts of all who knew him, especially children. When he died in July 1944, Montrose schools were closed and 800 children lined the route to his graveside funeral. Bamse (meaning bear) arrived in Montrose on the Royal Norwegian Navy minesweeper Thorodd during World War ll with Captain Erling Hafto, his owner, who registered him as a crew member. In Montrose, the stories of his exploits are numerous and legendary. He saved the life of Lieutenant Commander Olav Nilsen at Dundee Docks and generally looked after his fellow sailors. If anyone started a fight with one of his crew, Bamse got up on his hind legs and at over six foot tall, clamped his great paws on the assailant to end any fight. The Bamse Project raised £50,000 to erect a larger than life-size bronze statue of Bamse at Montrose Harbour. Half the donations came from Norway. The statue was created by internationally known sculptor Alan Herriot, and was unveiled by Prince Andrew in October 2007 in front of hundreds of spectators.

Geography and Natural Features
Montrose is positioned between the cities of Dundee and Aberdeen on the east coast. The expanse of the town extends to the villages on its fringes; Hillside and Ferryden. It lies close to the hamlets of Lunan and St Cyrus. The rural location ensures that the air quality is good, with low levels of nitrogen dioxide and PM10.

Montrose Basin


The Montrose Basin is a shallow estuary approximately three miles in diameter. It is situated where the River South Esk meets the North Sea. During the sixteenth century, local landowners desiring more arable land considered reducing its size, but their plans were never carried out.

In 1981 the Montrose Basin Nature Reserve was created. The Scottish Wildlife Trust operates a modern, purpose-built wildlife centre at Rossie Braes, which offers good telescopic and televisual views of the area, and of the thousands of migratory birds which pass through the area in all seasons.

In Summer, one might see the osprey which hunts along the length of the Basin, or a kingfisher flitting past. The artificial sand-martin bank is a hive of activity all Spring and early Summer. One can watch the blue tits and swallows inside their nests, and take in the panoramic vista of the rolling Angus countryside and hills.

In October and November there are 38,000 birds using the basin. In Winter, 20,000 pink-foot geese take up residence on the mudflats, feeding in the nearby fields by day, and returning to the safety of the Basin in the evening. The haunting fluting of their calls are beloved of local people, for whom the sound marks the turning of the seasons. The many feeders attract brightly coloured field and garden birds, and the occasional woodpecker.

In recent years research published by Scottish Natural Heritage claimed that the population of greylag geese has fallen as a result of climate change.

Montrose Beach


The 3 mile long sandy beach has been awarded a Blue Flag for its eco credentials. The surrounding Traill Pavilion and Seafront Splash! facilities with an arcade, a playground, a café and an ice-cream stall is popular amongst locals and visitors alike. North of the town the River North Esk enters the North Sea across the beach.

The Save our Sands Campaign (SOS) was set up on 26 March 2009 to raise awareness amidst concerns over the erosion of Montrose beach, caused by the "one million tonnes of sand, swept by the tide into the harbour...removed from the local area over the past 25 years". In 2006 150,000 tonnes was shipped to Aberdeen to fortify its dwindling beach. This was met with oppostion from Montrose Golf Links who believed that the golf course built on top of the dunes, as the one of the oldest in the world, should be protected. The sand dunes are becoming unstable due to increasing tides which has forced the Montrose Golf Links to consider moving the golf course more inland. However Scottish Natural Heritage opposes the realignment as it could affect a protected coastal site at St Cyrus.

The group have received support from Andrew Cooper, professor of Coastal Studies at University of Ulster.

A film made by local broadcaster Anthony Baxter in January 2009 highlighted the issue and was designed to attract attention for urgent action and put pressure on local politicians. The group are concerned that Angus Council are not acting efficiently to halt the effects of erosion and believe a full study should be carried out. The film won the best short film category in the BFFS Community Cinema Festival in 2009. Since 2009 a team from Dundee University has begun assessing the coastline around Montrose in a two year study to decide the best way of managing coastal erosion. The film titled "SOS Montrose Dredging" has been posted on YouTube.

Demography
Since the Second World War the population of Montrose has increased. Notably there is an increasing elderly population. This is reflected in the profusion of nursing and residential homes and in recent plans to extend provision for sheltered housing. However there has been a commensurate increase in the number of immigrants in recent years, particularly from Eastern Europe. Data published by Scottish Neighbourhood Statistics in 2008 records the population of Montrose & District as 15,013 which is around 18% of the population of Angus as a whole. Of this total 17.6% are children, 60% are of working age and 22% are pensioners. Around 12% of those who live in the town are unemployed and 14.1% of households are "income deprived".

Economy


The economy of the town has been expanding since the end of the Second World War. GlaxoSmithKline has been a major source of jobs since the 1950s. Other significant employers include Tesco, Somerfield, Petrofac and Merpro. Argos has recently opened an outlet in the town. In 2009 Sainsbury's announced plans to build a new superstore on the edge of the town which will provide work for an estimated 200 people. The average price of housing in the town is between £106,054 and £131,539, a rise on the 1998 average between £42,640 and £51,200.

Tourism
Since 2002 there has been a focus on attracting new visitors to the town with the foundation of the Montrose Town Partnership which aims to "encourage representatives of the public, private and community sector to act together to develop the economic potential of Montrose to address the needs of local people and visitors alike". Membership includes The Montrose Society, Montrose Heritage Trust, Montrose Community Council, Montrose Golf Links Ltd, MERPRO Leisure, Montrose Business and Retailers Association, Scottish Wildlife Trust, Dunninald and Angus Council, Ferryden & Craig and Hillside, Dun and Logie Pert community councils. . Since 2002 they have produced a number of promotional leaflets and have established a weekly Saturday market in the town centre. In 2002 plans were unveiled to renovate the Mid Links. The project was completed in 2003 at the total cost of £1.8million with £1.2million granted by the Heritage Lottery Fund. Plaques have been incorporated to inform visitors of the historical heritage of the town's buildings. In 2009 the council made a bid to improve the appearance of the town centre with solar panelled lamps with a moving banner, new benches and a decorative arch. Montrose Museum will be refurbished in October 2009 with work completed before Summer 2010 adding disabled toilet facilities, wheelchair access, a loop system and special lighting for the visually impaired.

Cultural History
Montrose is regarded as the culture and sculpture capital of Angus, with over 20 statues of note scattered around the town. The statues are a mix of contemporary and classical works, with many from the noted local sculptor, William Lamb (artist) ARSA. Lamb was born in Montrose in 1893 and was an artist of exceptional talent.

In Montrose from the 1920s to 1940s, local architect George Fairweather’s studio provided a forum for lively debate by an artistic community that included Hugh MacDiarmid, Edwin Muir, William Lamb (artist), Helen Cruickshank and Fionn MacColla. The local weekly newspaper, the Montrose Review, was edited by Hugh MacDiarmid.

Music
The first Montrose Music Festival took place over the weekend of Friday 31 May - Sunday 1 June 2008 and was an overwhelming success, bringing thousands of visitors and an estimated £500,000 boost to the local economy. The main attraction of the inaugural festival was the Friday night opening concert by the legendary Average White Band, regarded by many as the perfect band to open the first festival because of Montrose's connection with original AWB saxophonist's Malcolm Duncan. During the Saturday and Sunday, the music moved into the pubs and hotels with over 60 free entry gigs over the two days, with acts of varying genres entertaining thousands of music fans. Amongst these acts were harmonica player Fraser Speirs, Scottish folk band Malinky and alt-rock band Lights Action. Scottish band Deacon Blue headlined the 2009 festival. The 2009 festival took place over the weekend of Thursday 28th – Sunday 31 May and was attended by some 8000 people.

The Links Hotel hosts regular jazz, blues and funk nights; classical music concerts; DJ's and cabaret acts. The Montrose Folk Club's fortnightly Tuesday session at the Links Hotel, has previously presented Jim Malcolm, former singer with the Old Blind Dogs and John Doyle.

The Star Hotel will launch "Rock Star", a new music venue in Montrose on 9 January 2010.

Sport
Montrose also has the 5th oldest golf course in the world, the Montrose Medal, dating from 1562. It is also a qualifying course for The Open Championship. Past events hosted on the Montrose Links include:
 * Scottish Professional Championship, 1909, 1967, 1970
 * Scottish Amateur Championship, 1905, 1913, 1919, 1926 and 1925
 * British Boys Championship, 1991; Scottish Universities Championship
 * Final Qualifying for The Open, 1999 and 2007.

Montrose F.C. are members of the Scottish Football League and currently play in the Third Division. Montrose Roselea F.C. are a Scottish junior football, Formed in 1930 and nicknamed "the Lea", they play their home games at Broomfield Park. Other sports associations include the Montrose Cricket Club, Montrose & District SEALS Swimming Club, Montrose & District Athletics, Rugby union club and several bowls clubs which are part of the Montrose & District Bowling Club Association.

In Montrose Sports Centre there are a number of sports clubs including karate and gymnastics (M.A.G.I.C).

Annual Events
The first Sunday of every August Montrose hosts a Highland Games when the Rose Queen and attendants are traditionally presented. The Montrose Round Table hosts a firework display on Bonfire Night in the Links; the proceeds of which go to local charities. The town has recently started a beer festival.

Christian Groups


There are many churches in Montrose. Three belong to the Church of Scotland: Montrose Old and St Andrew's ('Auld Kirk'), Melville-South Parish Church, Dun and Hillside Church. There are two United Free Churches: Knox's Church and Ferryden Church. In the Links there is an Episcopal Church (St Mary's and St Peter's) the United Reform Church and Methodist Church nearby. In Borrowfield there is a Baptist Church and Mormon Church. A Quaker group meets in the town. The Roman Catholic community is served by St Margaret's Roman Catholic Church.

The most prominent church is the St Andrew's Church of 'Auld Kirk'. Reverend Dr Charles Nisbet who became minister in 1764 described it as a church which "embraced much cultivation and intelligence".

A Kingdom Hall of Jehovah's Witnesses lies on the edge of the town

Notable connections

 * Edward Baird was born in Montrose in 1904 and studied at Glasgow School of Art from 1924 to 1927. Baird returned to Montrose after graduating and lived there for the rest of his life, painting local subjects and keeping a low profile. Often described as a Scottish Surrealist, Baird is equally known for his association with the Scottish Renaissance movement. His artistic output was relatively small, due to his perfectionism, time-intensive manner of working and his early death at the age of forty-five.
 * Robert Brown (botanist), is acknowledged as the leading British botanist to collect in Australia during the first half of the 19th century.
 * Captain Sir Alexander Burnes, Explorer.
 * David Carnegie (entrepreneur)
 * George Paul Chalmers, Artist - The Angus Rembrandt.
 * Helen Cruickshank, the Scottish poet, grew up in this area.
 * Malcolm Duncan (musician), Sax player with the Average White Band
 * James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose, a Scottish nobleman and soldier born in Montrose in 1612.
 * Joseph Hume, Scottish doctor and politician was born in Montrose in 1777.
 * Violet Jacob (1863–1946) was a Scottish writer, now known especially for her historical novel Flemington and her poetry.
 * Fionn MacColla, pen-name of Thomas Douglas MacDonald, writer associated with the Scottish Renaissance.
 * Hugh MacDiarmid, was once editor of the local newspaper.
 * John McGovern (footballer), Nottingham Forest European Cup winning captain.
 * Andrew Melville, Radical Presbyterian who ensured the completion of Knox's Reformation in Scotland.
 * James Morrison (artist) RSA, RSW, Artist
 * Willa Muir, the most important translator of the twentieth century, was born Wilhelmina Anderson in Montrose. Assisted by her husband, the poet Edwin Muir, she translated many novels from German, including those of Kafka.
 * Charles Nisbet, was once minister at St Andrew's Church before becoming the first president of Dickinson College, Pennsylvania.
 * Robert Peel, notable for starting the police force originally called 'peelers'.
 * Carmen Reid, novelist was born in Montrose and grew up in the surrounding countryside.
 * Hercules Ross, gave evidence in support of the abolition of the slave trade.
 * Horatio Ross, Sportsman, Photographer & Politian.
 * Gordon Smith (footballer born 1924), footballer.
 * Betsy Whyte, remembered for her autobiography The Yellow on the Broom settled in Montrose and was a popular traditional storyteller at folk festivals.
 * George Wishart, Lutheran Reformer and Martyr.
 * William Lamb (artist)
 * Scot Donaldson, President of the Hamish McAlpine fan club
 * HMS Montrose (F236) Royal Navy frigate named after the town.

Twin towns

 * 🇫🇷 – Luzarches, France - Montrose has been twinned with Luzarches since 1994.

History and Tourism

 * Old maps of Montrose (1693-1861)
 * Montrose Town Plan 1861/2
 * History of Montrose by Angus Council
 * Montrose Natural History and Antiquarian Society
 * Montrose Air Station Heritage Centre
 * Bamse Memorial Website
 * Visit Montrose
 * Undiscovered Scotland Montrose
 * Montrose Golf Links

Photographs

 * Photos of Montrose from Flickr
 * More photos of Montrose from Flickr
 * Photos of Montrose from The Gazetteer for Scotland

Community Links

 * Montrose Community Website
 * Save our Sands Campaign - addressing coastal erosion around Montrose
 * Montrose Society
 * Montrose Review
 * Montrose Music Festival
 * Live Music Event Calendar @ The Links
 * Montrose Picture House
 * Montrose F.C Fan Forum
 * Old and St Andrews Church
 * Sleepyhillock Cemetery
 * List of men recorded on Montrose War Memorial